Nagano born Maiko Kuroguochi harnesses arcane techniques in crafting elaborate designs inspired by vintage Japanese clothing , paintings and ceramics. 

Her approach to design is evident in her creations which is individually striking and meticulous. 

A womenswear clothing label that was established in 2010, her experience spanned in 2006 when she was working in Issey Miyake Design Studio. 

Then, she was in charge of the "A Piece of Cloth (A-POC)" project where a big piece of fabric is woven from one single thread by a computer-driven machine, which already knows the pattern of the finished garment. This results in a finished two-dimensional piece of fabric which is also a finished garment that can be customised by the wearer to fulfil individual needs.

Working along rural artisans and her travels across Japan serves as a major focus when she develops her collection season after season that is simply breathtaking.

For Spring/Summer 2024 collection titled "Fragments" , descends to Arita town in Saga Prefecture, historical for Early Imari pottery which harbours memories of the dawn of Japanese porcelain in the first half of the 17th century, while listening to craftsmanship of past and present-day potters and hence, translating the stories that arise from fragments of memory and the glaze of white porcelain into this collection.

Here, i would like to feature 8 unique items that are base on various interpretations of the white porcelain that takes centrestage in this resplendent collection. 

1) A Hazy Glaze

Inspired by the pale tones of Early Imari pottery, created in pursuit of an ideal "white" which potters longed for in the past, are transformed to a luminous glow of sheer lamé jersey pieces that covers the skin as if glaze were flowing. Evoking a hazy landscape that appears behind glaze.

1a) Blue Marble Print Jersey Crew Neck Top

1b) White Jacquard Vest Jacket

Inspired by the "Yokoku" emboss technique of early Imari pottery , the mint ceramic "Yokoku" button (an original) was made by the designer herself. The finish wash process and uneven dyeing creates a soft texture and depth. This resembles an uneven lustrous glaze on the surface of a ceramic. 

2) Tactility of "Yokoku" 

A key feature in this collection is incorporating "Yokoku" technique. This technique is evident in early Imari period. Hence, in an attempt to "transform porcelain into clothes" this technique of pressing patterned moulds into patterns are visibly seen and featured in these next 2 pieces.

2a) Black Floral Embossed Square Neck Dress

Crafted from cotton dungaree, a stone bio + bleach wash process is applied to obtain a rich uneven texture. The emboss detailings applied to the collar front and sleeves adds panache to a seemingly casual piece. 

2b) Blue Jersey Jacquard Top & Mermaid Skirt

This matching separates are made of recycled polyester yarn. The patterns are knitted with an elasticated yarn of polyurethane covered covered with polyester. Exuding a sunken and three dimensional look and many will notice it immediately.

 3) A Memory Landscape

Inviting others to a world of nostalgia and harking to past and present is a mantra for Mame Kuroguochi. Referencing from the early Imari period thats known for its porcelain. Motifs of landscape, florals and sceneries depicted from China's Tang dynasty are amalgamated into this splendid collection. 

3a) Sky Landscape Graphic Sheer Knit Dress

A jacquard pattern consisting of Japanese landscapes, flowers and birds is a de rigeur on this stunning knit dress. Obtained from ultra fine lamé and woolly yarns thats spun on a special Italian circular knitting machine. The delicate and transparent knitted fabric creates a sensual effect on the skin, while the shading in the pattern gives it a look of depth and profoundness.  The fitted, compact silhouette makes the body look slender, while the voluminous skirt of the dress gives an elegant impression and makes the it light and comfortable to wear.

4) Collected Fragments

Asymmetrically designed knit camisoles and casual knit vests are woven with delicate handwork. Each piece is designed as if broken pieces of various sizes are combined, making it possible for intricate and unique motifs to coexist. This literal translation of fragments and scatters are conveyed and imbued into this collection. 

4a) White Cotton Lace Cap Sleeve Top

This intricate and exquisite top is made possible with the assistance of a special machine. Meant to mimic lace and viewing it up close , you will notice the fine handiwork that goes into it. As Mame Kuroguochi is a visionary herself, combining both technology and craftsmanship are her forte. 

Special mentions on her line of accessories that includes bags , shoes , jewellery and belts. Her bags which are spectacularly interesting are focus next. 

5) Black Transparent Sculptural Mini Chains Bag 

A signature bag from the brand's inception , everything seen here are laser cut in vinyl chloride acrylic is a modern marvel. Hand-crafted swim rings and medical equipment manufactures are telling of the designer herself for passion on creation and remarkable innovation.

6) Beige Cording Embroidery Round Handbag

The signature cord embroidery was inspired by her experience of feeling protected by grasses, and to create a “wearable basket”. Her efforts into outreaching a shoelace factory, asking them to create a soft yet firm original linen thread with a gloss & flattened by a sewing machine. Hence, an utterly unique one stroke embroider was applied, akin to plants would be woven into rattan baskets. 

The body of this tote is made of nylon before this ornate cord embroidery is applied over and stitched with a durable and lightweight thread thats produce exclusively. The final flourish is of cowhide that partly inlays this extraordinary handbag.

Mame Kuroguochi is all about praising the female body and form. The very idea existed even before Kurogouchi started her first career at Issey Miyake – the first collection of garments she made during Bunka School of Fashion was aptly named Courbe, curve in French.

“Human body is made of curved lines”  Mame Kurogouchi often reminisces when she talks about the making of the iconic silhouettes. Her garments often employ both fitted and loosened silhouettes, along with subtly plunged or slit details.

The idea behind this refinement is an emphasis on the skin is to encourage women and discover more of their bodies and embracing it fully. 








































As seen here of the iconic graphic marble print , this is made possible by a unique hand printing technique. Printed on a light recycled polyester and polyurethane fabric. The marble pattern is expressive as it is distinct with such delicate handwork.

1b) White Jacquard Dyed Sleeveless Vest Jacket

This tactile jacquard was inspired by the Yokoku emboss technique of early Imari pottery. The finishing wash process and uneven dye creates a soft texture and depth to the fabric with a shade that resembles uneven, beautiful glaze on a surface of a ceramic. The sleeveless jacket features original Yokoku ceramic buttons made by the designer herself.